Because the epidermis is a reflection of our internal wellness, body imbalances and compromised health can sometimes show up on our skin. Dryness, dullness, acne, sensitivity, and other skin woes can all be cues that something is amiss below the surface. The good news is that a little self care can go a long way to boost your overall wellness, and as a result, your skin!
To help you get started, here are our top five tips:
Strive for a healthy balanced diet
Much like the rest of your body, your skin thrives on a diet that is rich in vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, fiber and other nutrients. By incorporating a variety of vegetables, fruits, healthy fats and protein into your diet, you’ll help support processes like collagen synthesis, cellular turnover and repair. Bonus: as a result of regularly nourishing your body, you’ll help create glowing skin from the inside out.
Have fun and get moving
The benefits of a fitness routine are almost too numerous to list, but at the top of our list of favorite perks is happier, healthier skin. A tip we love is to simply pick an activity that you love and get moving. Dancing, walking your dog, or playing sports with your kids are all great ways to get your heart rate up and sweat away your stress. Just a few minutes of exercise per day can be enough to improve your mood, circulation, digestion and lymphatic drainage - all of which can help to promote brighter, clearer, smoother and more supple skin.
Stay on top of your stress levels
Although the stress of modern day life can feel unavoidable, keeping stress levels in check can still be incredibly beneficial. Meditation, yoga or other similar practices are beneficial not only for your health but also your skin, as they can have a positive impact on inflammation levels and promote more body balance. Although making time for yourself can be difficult some days, even a few mindful moments can go a long way to help you reboot and recharge.
Get your beauty rest
As it turns out, the key to youthful skin is sleeping like a baby. Experts say that while we are in a state of deep sleep is our skin’s ideal time to rejuvenate and repair. Without proper rest, the body struggles to keep up with daily processes and the skin can become sluggish. To prevent this from happening, experts say a full eight hours each night is ideal for health, optimal daily performance and mental focus. In other words, prioritize getting those zzzzzzs.
Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate (and then hydrate some more)
For fueling the body’s many functions, including cellular turnover and repair, water is life. Although it’s great to apply hydrating serums and products externally to boost your skin’s H2O levels, it’s equally important to stay hydrated internally by drinking plenty of water every day. Experts recommend about eight glasses of water daily, or more if you are active and sweat a lot. Replacing lost fluids will help keep your energy levels up and prevent your complexion from getting depleted. You can also boost hydration by eating water-rich fruits and vegetables.
So now that we’ve covered all the basics for holistic daily wellness, the last step is to support your skin with the proper products, according to your unique skin type and concerns. Let’s talk about skincare routines!
Oily Skin - Oily or acne prone skin types often need products that will keep oil levels healthy, without stripping the skin. For best results, we recommend a mix of active alpha-hydroxy acids or Vitamin A-rich ingredients like pumpkin, which work to gently exfoliate and keep breakouts at bay.
Combination Skin - Balance is key for keeping combination skin in check. To prevent excess oil as well as dryness, look for lightweight hydrators that won’t clog pores and utilize naturally calming extracts and exfoliating enzymes. Carrot, chamomile, papaya and pineapple are all examples of great ingredients for combination skin.
Dry Skin - Dry skin often needs extra nourishment in the form of concentrated oils and products designed to improve moisture levels. Avocado, borage, and other botanical oil blends work well to replenish dull skin while hyaluronic acid is also a must for helping the skin retain vital hydration.
Aging Skin - For targeting signs of aging such as fine lines and wrinkles, we love active formulas that promote rejuvenation and revive depleted skin. Go-to ingredients for mature or aging skin include youth-boosting retinol and peptides, plus natural brighteners like Vitamin C.
Sensitive Skin - Sensitive skin types that experience redness or reactivity respond best to a simple routine with gentle ingredients, focused on calming and barrier support. Some of our favorite ingredients for soothing sensitive skin include cucumber, comfrey, arnica, and green tea extract.
Just remember this: no matter your skin type, struggles, perceived imperfections, etc. you are all beautiful. Whether you try changing your lifestyle, use products or a combination of both, we certainly hope this article will help you achieve your goals. You are perfect the way you are and we, at Picasso Skin, want you to know you are appreciated and important. Please take the time to enjoy each day and know you are deserving and worth the things you want. We hope you have enjoyed this article. Until the next...
Also, please don't forget to comment below. We welcome all comments, suggestions, etc. as it helps us grow and improve. We are always here for you.
When we discuss oil and the skin, it’s important to start by clearing up a common myth. Contrary to what many big brands and advertisers would have you believe, oil is not your skin’s enemy. In fact, it’s quite the opposite.
The truth is that the natural oil (sebum) produced in the sebaceous glands of your hair follicles plays an important role in the composition of healthy skin. Oil - or sebum - is part of what makes up the skin’s natural protective barrier, keeping your epidermis moisturized and more immune to external stressors that can damage or age this amazing organ.
However, you may be wondering, what if your skin produces too much oil? This is not uncommon. As it turns out, a number of things can cause your skin to go into overproduction mode and begin producing too much sebum. When this happens, you’ll be quick to notice because the skin will feel slick, appear shiny and can be more prone to acne breakouts.
So why does this happen? And what can you do about it? Here’s what you need to know:
What causes excess oil production?
The amount of oil our skin produces is largely determined by genetics, which is something we have no control over. Having oily skin is a skin type characterized by large pores all over the face and overactive sebaceous glands that produce excess oil consistently (figure 1).
That said, all skin types can experience overproduction of oil from time to time, for various reasons, including hormones, stress, lifestyle and environment. All of these factors can cause the body to become out of balance and the skin may react as a result.
Additionally, skin that has been stripped of its natural oils or hydration (or both), due to dry climate, aging or use of too many aggressive skincare products, can also react by producing more oil (figure 1). This is your body’s way of compensating to protect itself and a good sign that your skin is feeling depleted.
Dos & Don’ts for Dealing with Excess Oil
For addressing oily skin, dermatologists and skin experts recommend the following:
Plant-Based Ingredients that Promote Balance
As you may have already guessed, choosing the right ingredients for your skincare can be a crucial part of combating excess oil production. The good news is that there are a number of amazing plant-based ingredients that we love for treating the skin when oil production is an issue.
In particular, botanical oils like squalane and jojoba are wonderful because they mimic the skin’s natural oils, allowing the skin to cease overproduction. Other great ingredients include: aloe for its skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, alpha-hydroxy acids and fruit enzymes for gentle exfoliation, and hydrators like hyaluronic acid, which work to improve water retention and barrier repair without clogging pores (meaning they are non-comedogenic). These ingredients can help promote balanced and healthy looking skin when used correctly.
Who is skincare for? And who is a balance of oil in the skin beneficial for?
We would like to take a moment to mention that despite certain outdated and unwarranted stereotypes, the skin is an organ like any other and needs to be taken care of. This includes both men and women. Healthy skin is in!
Other Important Things To Know
At Picasso Skin, we believe in approaching the skin holistically, with clean, plant-based ingredients that promote healing, hydration, balance and better overall skin health for all. For targeting excess oil production, here are a few of our favorite products:
Although many people struggle with an over production of oil, it's important to know that there are many options available to combat and control this common issue. Taking proactive measures such as washing your skin, using gentle exfoliators with fruit acids and alpha-hydroxy acids and moisturizing regularly will go a long way. In addition, plant-derived ingredients, such as those found in many of our products including our vegan sourced hyaluronic acid and jojoba oil found in Picasso Skin's Peptide Moisture Illuminator are wonderful options to balance many peoples' overactive sebaceous glands and large pores. There are many more options including - but not limited to - squalane (not the animal-derived form) that are also found in our products.
Lastly, as always mentioned, it is also important to note that despite the presence of excess oil, those who struggle with this skin type are still beautiful people. Everyone is perfect the way they are no matter who they are or where they come from. Everyone is deserving of the best, so please, take care of yourself, including your beautiful skin. You deserve it and you are worth it.
We hope you have enjoyed the 5th article of 7. Please stay tuned for the next:
Next Article: How to deal with dull looking skin.
As usual, please feel free to comment below...looking forward to your responses.
Before we dive in, it's important to understand what blackheads actually are.
Simply put, a blackhead (aka open-comedone) is a congested hair follicle clogged with dead skin cells (mostly keratinocytes), bacteria and oil (sebum) which then oxidizes and turns a dark color. It’s also worth noting that a blackhead is not the same thing as an oil plug or sebaceous filament, which tend to show up on the nose and mimic the appearance of a blackhead. These oil plugs often get mistaken for clogged pores, but they are completely normal and not meant to be messed with.
Blackheads on the other hand, are unwanted guests with a tendency to also overstay their welcome. With that in mind, here are our top tips for giving your blackheads the boot:
Prevention is Key
As we've already discussed, blackheads are clogged or congested follicles, but how is it that they get clogged to begin with? In our experience some of the most common causes are: insufficient cleansing and/or exfoliation, pore clogging (comedogenic) ingredients in other products, or makeup and even internal imbalances in the body.
Wash regularly
To keep buildup from happening in the follicles, you don’t need expensive treatments or products. The real fix is daily cleansing with a face wash designed for your skin type. This helps purify the skin and prevents blackhead-causing debris from accumulating in the first place.
Exfoliate regularly with AHAs and BHAs
Exfoliation is another great preventative defense against congested skin. More specifically, for addressing blackheads, we find that the most effective form of exfoliation is chemical exfoliation.
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA’s) such as lactic acid and glycolic acid as well as beta-hydroxy acids (mostly salicylic acid), are plant-derived acids and in our opinion, work best for dissolving oil plugs and dead skin cells. We also love fruit acids and botanical enzymes - like bromelain and papain - which encourage the exfoliation process, helping your skin to more easily purge impurities.
Keep the Skin Hydrated and Moisturized
In order to complete cellular turnover at a healthy rate, it is also critical that you fuel your skin with vital moisture and hydration. Although you may be concerned about additional layers of product causing more blackheads, we promise that moisturizing is not the problem.
All skin types need moisture to function properly. In fact, it’s when your skin becomes sluggish from dehydration, that skin processes slow down and unwanted debris really begins to accumulate in the follicles. By applying a moisturizer daily, you’ll be ensuring your skin stays healthy and hydrated and help keep blackheads at bay.
Picasso Skin’s Product Picks
Ready to tackle blackheads with a few good products? Here are our recommendations:
Cleansers
AHA + BHA Exfoliators
Moisturizers
Although many people struggle with blackheads, it's important to know that there are many options available to combat and control these little pests as described above. Taking proactive measures such as washing your skin and moisturizing regularly will go a long way. In addition, plant-derived ingredients, such as those found in many of our products are exceptionally effective at preventing and removing these oxidized, clogged pores and unwelcomed guests.
Lastly, it is also important to note that despite the presence of blackheads, those who struggle with them are still beautiful people. Plus, for most people, with the proper skincare routine and products and ingredients mentioned in this article, one should be able to handle these clogged pores with ease. We sincerely hope this has helped someone out there.
We hope you have enjoyed this 4th article of 7. Please stay tuned for the next:
Next Article: How to deal with oily skin.
As usual, please feel free to comment below...looking forward to your responses.
Fine lines and wrinkles are a normal part of aging that, unfortunately, most of us have, or will develop at some point in our lifetimes. The medical term for these creases in our skin is called rhytids, or rhytid for singular. Unfortunately, the greatest determining factor of their formation lies within our DNA (deoxyribonucleic acid), which is completely out of our control (at least for the time being). We’ll touch more on this later…
Luckily, premature fine lines and wrinkles have other causes strongly associated with our habits, age, and lifestyles that we have some control over. With a few lifestyle adjustments, patience, and dedication we can significantly slow the course of their progression and even reverse their appearance through various ways, including plant-based applications. Some of the more common and treatable causes of rhytids are listed below — plus one partial myth (keep reading to find out which one).
Here’s the list:
Due to this inevitable process, our skin forms “weak spots,” or rhytids (loose, baggy, wrinkled skin). In addition, natural moisturizing oils (sebum) produced by our sebaceous glands — through a process called holocrine secretion — gradually begin to decrease after the age of 20 in most people (fig. 6) [2]. This decline in sebum production (which protects and hydrates our skin), along with the loss of structural collagen and elasticity via elastin, may contribute to and exacerbate the progression and appearance of rhytids as we age.
It is important to note that sebum loss alone does not play a major role in age related fine lines and wrinkles, however, it helps moisturize and protect our cells from damage, thus creating the appearance of fuller, smoother, and more hydrated looking skin. This is important and has major implications as a “role player” when considering collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid’s direct effect on our skin’s structure, health, and durability.
The chart below is a hypothetical representation — based on estimates of known trends — between males and females and the association between wrinkle appearance as a function of time vs decreased production of sebum associated with age:
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Although age related fine lines and wrinkles are inevitable, there are steps we can take to significantly reduce the progression and severity of their appearance. We cannot underestimate the power and efficacy of many of the plant-derived ingredients already discussed in previous sections of this article. Some of them will also be suggested for rhytids as well. Additionally, I will introduce and suggest several new plant-derived ingredients that we have not covered yet that can work wonders for your skin and its appearance (most of which my partner and I use ourselves). With that said, let’s tackle these skin problems once and for all.
Before getting into the details, however, it is important to cover the rest of the list of common and treatable causes of fine lines and wrinkles. Ladies and gentlemen are you ready? Let’s go!...
Persistent facial expressions (which I know all too much about) are something many of us do without realizing. What many of us also do not realize is that they can have permanent and detrimental effects when considering skin appearance. So, regarding unnecessary expressions, and for the sake of premature aging, I can simply tell you, “just don’t.”
The act of constantly frowning, squinting, contorting your face and even continuously rubbing your skin will break down the tissues containing collagen and elastin responsible for that supple looking appearance. The result of this repeated breakdown within the extracellular space of these areas will create weak spots similar to what we see in aging. The result: fine lines and wrinkles.
Of course, things are easier said than done, so this will take patience and practice…find your zen and connect. It can be done. Plus, the good news is that these rhytids can be treated with topical ingredients that we will soon discuss.
UV light, whether in the form of sunlight, or via lamp, can be damaging to our skin. There are several wavelengths of ultraviolet radiation responsible for cellular damage. UVA and UVB are the most dangerous to us because of their high energy content. UVC - while having shorter wavelengths than both UVA and UVB - cannot easily pass through the earth’s atmosphere, therefore, we are never exposed to it (with the exception of welding torches, mercury lamps, etc.).
Generally speaking, the shorter the wavelength, the more energy light has. UVA has a wavelength range of approximately 315nm-400nm while UVB exists within the range of 280nm-315nm. Oddly enough, while UVA rays hold slightly less energy than UVB, they are able to penetrate deeper into our skin (even reaching the dermis). This is due to less “scattering” once these photons make contact with the surface of our integumentary system. Because UVB rays have more energy (due to shorter wavelengths), they scatter more easily, thus having a greater impact on the outer layers of the epidermis, such as the stratum corneum. Lastly, because our skin cells contain mostly water, and UVA is more easily absorbed by this molecule, we can see why this would also contribute to UVA’s deeper penetration than UVB.
How does this apply to premature fine lines and wrinkles in our skin?
Due to UVA’s penetration into the dermis, it can affect the DNA and RNA in our fibroblast cells within the extracellular matrix. In addition, free radicals are formed when atomic oxygen and these photons combine [4]. This produces highly reactive and unstable free radical derivatives, such as superoxide, hydrogen peroxide and the extremely oxidative hydroxyl [4]. Through the process of oxidation, these free radicals damage our cells responsible for skin integrity and structure (such as fibroblast cells) [4].
As we recall, fibroblast cells are responsible for synthesizing and secreting structural, elastic, and hydrating molecules, such as collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. Once these free radicals impair our cells’ ability to produce these molecules, the extracellular matrix begins to fragmentize causing our skin to become weaker and break down, thus, fine lines and wrinkles begin to appear.
While UVA is associated with rhytids (fine lines and wrinkles), UVB is mainly responsible for surface damage, such as sunburns and certain cancers. So, does this mean we need to stay away from the sun? Absolutely not. Does it mean we need to expose ourselves in moderation and wear sunscreen? Yes. Is the sun good for us when limited? Yes, very much so.
We can all agree that drinking water and staying hydrated is good for our health and necessary for survival. In fact, we will only survive one week without water, as opposed to three weeks when deprived of food. Water is important for keeping our cells hydrated. Additionally, being that our cells constitute a large portion of our bodies, and the fact that we are made up of approximately 60% water, it is safe to say that H2O molecule is essential for our survival. Regulation of proper levels of water and solutes (water-soluble salts) through diffusion and osmosis within our cells is what helps keep us alive.
Because water moves from low areas of solute concentration to areas of high concentration, it will always try to establish a balance, or equilibrium, within and outside the semipermeable phospholipid bilayer of our cells (cell membrane). This is called osmosis (movement of water through a semipermeable membrane). If there is a major imbalance, our cells will either dehydrate, or become overhydrated. Take, for example, the following scenario: If the outside, or extracellular space of someone’s cells have excessively high concentrations of solutes (called a hypertonic solution), then water will pass through their cellular membranes and out of their cells. If enough water passes out, their cells become dehydrated, resulting in loss of volume, or cell shrinkage. Contrary to this process, if the extracellular space of this person’s cells have excessively low concentrations of solutes (called a hypotonic solution), then water will pass opposite through their cellular membranes and flow into their cells. This can potentially result in overhydration and possibly cytolysis (a condition in which cells burst due to excess water).
Aside from a plethora of other factors, the health and survival of a cell, relative to water intake, is contingent upon variables such as osmotic pressure between hypertonic and hypotonic solutions inside and outside of its semipermeable phospholipid bilayer. In other words, water is most beneficial to cellular survival and proper function when relative hydrostatic pressure (equal water pressure or volumetric rate) has been established at the junction of our extracellular and intracellular space (the cell membrane, aka phospholipid bilayer). In this scenario, the inner and outer portion of these cells are isotonic, meaning, they are equal in their solute concentration.
What does this mean and how does it apply to fine lines and wrinkles?
Well, not much…
While dehydration will certainly draw water from our cells, as described above, causing them to lose volume and shrink, it does not mean what you see in the mirror are true rhytids. What you see are called dehydration lines, caused by an imbalance effectuated by water diffusion out of your cells due to higher levels of solutes existing outside of the intracellular space. This can give the appearance of wrinkles due to volumetric water loss, but once you grab that cup or two — or three — of H2O you’ll begin the process of diluting those solutes and reestablishing equal hydrostatic pressure. Once equilibrized, via osmosis, your cells will rehydrate and “plump” up, thus, reversing those dehydration lines. In other words, dehydration does not cause true permanent fine lines and wrinkles in the way that age related extracellular matrix degradation does. Anyway, just drink water.
Verdict: Some truth, but mostly myth.
Ah yes, sleepless nights. You know, that all too familiar feeling of finally falling asleep thirty minutes before you have to wake, and throughout the day all that runs through your mind is, “get back home so I can go to bed early?” Except, instead of doing what you know you need to do, you stay awake late again? Yep, been there many times…
Well, as guilty as some of us are, when sleep deprived there will be problems, one of which is our appearance. And to be honest, our looks should be the last of our worries when it comes to the effects of sleep deprivation. However, since we are discussing skin problems, we’ll focus on those fine lines and wrinkles as a consequence of not frequenting dreamland enough.
It is no secret that sleep — or lack thereof — has major consequences regarding our health. What we sometimes do not realize is the degree to which a proper night’s rest impacts our lives. On average, there are generally 4 to 6 sleep cycles per night [5]. The average sleep cycle lasts anywhere from 70-100 minutes (during the first cycle) to its longest of 90 to 120 minutes, however, durations change with age [5]. Each sleep cycle is made up of four separate stages which is divided into three Non-REM stages and one REM stage as follows:
During each stage, our bodies are undergoing different processes as summarized below:
During stage 3, the body is very relaxed while our heart rate, breathing, and temperature decrease even further. While in this state our brains produce patterns called “delta waves,” which are the slowest brain waves we will produce during any stage of a cycle. Stage 3 is also called “delta sleep” or “short-wave sleep (SWS)” due to our particular state of brain activity. Deep sleep is perhaps the most important part of each cycle, as our bodies begin to repair, grow, and strengthen the immune system. See where this is going in reference to those fine lines and wrinkles?
Oh yeah, sleep, cellular repair, fine lines and wrinkles…
As we recall, collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid are all major constituents of the extracellular matrix, which is responsible for our skin’s structure, elasticity, and appearance. Within our fibroblast cells each of these macromolecules are made by proteins formed by amino acid chains produced by ribosomes (particles that synthesize protein) that can be free floating or within the endoplasmic reticulum (membranous structure within the cytoplasm of a cell where ribosomes can attach). Sound confusing? I’ll simplify below:
Remember stage 3 of the sleep cycle, where bodily repair, growth and immune system bolstering occur?
When our cells need to repair themselves, they essentially prompt what is called ribosomal RNA (rRNA) to form ribosomes which ultimately synthesize amino acid chains that form proteins. These proteins are needed by different parts of the body, including fibroblast cells, for repair. Once our fibroblast cells have been repaired, they can synthesize macromolecules again such as, collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid that make up most of the extracellular matrix.
Considering a major role of the extracellular matrix is directly related to our skin’s structure, health, and appearance, we see why keeping fibroblast cells repaired from free radicals and other damage is important. When we sleep properly, we enter stage 3 where this repair occurs which essentially enables our fibroblast cells to produce more of the above-mentioned macromolecules. Basically, sleep repairs fibroblasts which then produce more collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid — all responsible for keeping skin vibrant and supple.
In addition to the role that sleep has on cellular repair, it also helps with blood circulation. Remember in an earlier post of this 7 part article when I mentioned sleep deprivation, blood flow, dark circles and bags? To refresh, when blood flow is limited, due to sleep deprivation, our bodies focus on channeling whatever properly oxygenated blood we have to major internal organs, and not our skin.
While lack of blood circulation may have a larger impact on our periorbital dark circles, it also plays a role in our bodies’ ability to absorb our skincare ingredients, which, as we know can have a huge impact on those fine lines and wrinkles. As we can see, sleep is a major factor in the formation of these unwanted rhytids.
It is important to note that many people have sleeping disorders and is not always their fault. If you are someone who struggles with sleep, there are many things you can try, but from my personal experience, I eventually had to see a doctor.
The point: do whatever you have to do (in a healthy, non-destructive or dangerous way) to get the sleep you need and deserve.
Quit if you can and if you haven't started, just DON'T!
First, I want to say smoking is a choice and it does not make you a bad person. We all have our vices in life. There is never a reason to look down on someone if they are a smoker. I always try to support anyone who is trying to quit. It is a hard habit to break and those who manage to do it deserve props. The benefits of quitting smoking begin almost immediately. If there are any readers out there trying to quit I will list a few resources below that hopefully help:
https://www.cdc.gov/tobacco/campaign/tips/quit-smoking/index.html
https://smokefree.gov/tools-tips/get-extra-help/free-resources
https://www.lung.org/quit-smoking/i-want-to-quit
So, how does smoking contribute to fine lines and wrinkles?
This will be a brief and straight to the point section before we move on to plant-derived treatments for these pesky rhytids caused by age and free radicals associated with our environment and habits.
One of the main ingredients included in cigarettes is the stimulant nicotine. Nicotine found in cigarettes is derived from the plant Nicotina tabacum. This plant produces leaves which are processed into and sold as part of tobacco products. Contained in the leaves of this plant are nitrogen containing chemicals that ultimately restrict blood flow to parts of our body including the skin via blood vessel constriction. As a result, oxygen and nutrient delivery are compromised resulting in the breakdown of the extracellular matrix. In addition, cigarette smoke is loaded with many toxins that act as free radicals. As discussed before, we know the effects of oxidation from free radicals on our skin appearance and especially those fine lines and wrinkles.
Unfortunately, the damage to your skin from smoking may not be reversed, but stopping now will limit the damage and allow you to preserve and prevent any further degradation of the structure, elasticity and appearance of your skin.
As mentioned above, smoking doesn't make you weak, less of a person or give anyone the right to judge you. You are human and you smoke. We all have vices. I drink soda and that is definitely not a good thing, but if we put our minds to it, and really want something, we can and will accomplish what we set out to do, including breaking habits. Life is about assessing what your wants and needs are, then making choices. YOU CAN DO IT!
On to treatments...
How can we tackle the appearance of Fine lines and Wrinkles?
Luckily we can improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles caused by aging, habits, behaviors and the associated production of free radicals as discussed above. With that said, there are many traditional options available, and many of these work great, but, sometimes at a significant cost; a cost to your wallet, sometimes a cost to your appearance, maybe even deflating changes to your confidence and sadly, sometimes at the cost of your very own physical health.
Ok, enough of the doomsday talk. There is light, not all is bad and we have a lot to smile about. First, you are amazing the way you are. This needs to be established, accepted and embraced by every last person reading this before we move further. Period. Got it? Good, let's proceed...
Considering the above statements and the drive to iron out those wrinkles (can we literally just iron them out maybe???...sorry, corny joke, PLEASE DO NOT DO THAT) many of our dermatological wants and needs are highly responsive to plant-derived ingredients.
The ingredients that I am about to go over are scientifically backed, real-world tested, very safe to use when used correctly, and can have a significant impact on those fine lines and wrinkles (you know those wrinkles everyone frowns upon causing even more wrinkles?). I mean, wrinkles are almost synonymous with wisdom right? Are they that bad? Uh, I feel like I am going to wrinkle by just thinking about frowning, which, now I realize - by looking in the mirror - I actually am wrinkling after all because I am actually frowning, which in return makes me wrinkle more, which makes me frown more, which makes me wrinkle, which...AHH, JUST SMILE OK?!! At any rate, I want the cycle to stop and I want my wrinkles gone.
On a serious note, the truth is many of us want to look younger for various reasons, and there's nothing wrong with looking the way that makes you feel best in life. And I am here to tell you you can look and feel younger using plant-derived, safe options to choose from for those fine lines and wrinkles. And remember, this isn't speculation or any kind of sales pitch, this is backed by science and real world, in-vivo use over decades, centuries and more.
In addition to sleep, good nutritional intake and the other steps discussed above, incorporating the following ingredients into your skincare routine can have a huge impact on those fine lines and wrinkles over time (this will not be an overnight process despite what some companies claim).
Without delay, here are 4 plant-derived ingredients that can actually work wonders for the prevention, management and appearance of premature fine lines and wrinkles.
Bakuchiol, the somewhat "new kid on the block," is a meroterpene phenol (compound having a partial terpenoid structure) and phytochemical found in the seeds and leaves of the Psoralea corylifolia plant (aka babchi plant). Although it does not resemble any of the retinoids in its structural composition, it seems to be completely analogous to retinol in its function and ability to fight fine lines and wrinkles. This amazing ingredient has all of the amazing properties and benefits of retinol and other vitamin A derivatives, but comes without the irritation or any other side effects often associated with active retinoic acid metabolites found in these products. Like retinol, bakuchiol is a very potent antioxidant that has been studied and shown to be just as effective as retinol in combating the presence and appearance of those pesky rhytids.
As a quick refresher, antioxidants work by donating or taking up an electron to and from unstable free radicals. Free radicals seek out and "steal" or "scavenge" an electron from otherwise stable molecules to stabilize themselves, thus leaving the molecule it took the electron from damaged. This process is called oxidation and and if left unchecked can lead to wrinkles, skin disorders and more through various pathways. Antioxidants are very important in that once they donate this electron to the unstable free radical, the oxidation process stops, our cells heal, resume normal function and proliferate. Bakuchiol is an extremely effective antioxidant and is backed by enough science making it a wise choice for anyone and all skin types.
A study involving the comparison of bakuchiol and retinol showed that after a 12 week treatment using this retinoid alternative, significant improvement was observed in fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, and skin elasticity [7]. In addition, significant reduction in photo-damage to human skin was observed [7]. Last, but not least, researchers in this study were also able to determine that bakuchiol had comparable effects on the stimulation of collagen production in fibroblast cells when comparing the two ingredient benefits [7].
Another similar, but separate double-blind study involved 44 individuals who either applied 0.5% bakuchiol cream or 0.5% retinol cream twice daily for 12 weeks [8]. The researchers in this study used a high-resolution facial photograph and analytical system to observe the effects of both groups at weeks 0, 4, 8 and 12 during the course of treatment [8]. In addition, each participant was asked to complete tolerability questions related to skin irritation and redness and were monitored for pigmentation and reactions throughout the study by a board-certified dermatologist [8]. The results showed both retinol and bakuchiol significantly and equally reduced fine lines and wrinkles and hyperpigmentation [8]. However, the only difference between the two ingredients was that those who used bakuchiol had no irritation or side effects commonly associated with retinol use [8].
Due to bakuchiol's powerful antioxidant properties, this ingredient is able to penetrate deep into the dermis layer of our skin (despite having a relatively large size compared to retinol) and fight free radical oxidation, resulting in healthy, fully functioning fibroblast cells.
As we recall, fibroblast cells synthesize macromolecules such as collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, which make up the majority of the extracellular matrix. An intact and hydrated extracellular matrix keeps our skin from breaking down and creating the appearance of premature wrinkles.
As discussed above, bakuchiol is an amazing ingredient that I highly recommend for those with sensitive skin. It is very safe (check EWG.org site for safety score) and just as effective as retinol. This amazing antioxidant is known to stimulate a high skin cell turnover rate resulting in suppler, smoother and newer looking skin. My partner uses our Phytoretinol Serum product everyday and it has worked wonders. This is certainly an ingredient worth consideration for those who want to combat fine lines and wrinkles without the irritation of retinol.
How to use our Retinol Renewal:
Niacinamide, (aka nicotinamide), is one of two forms of vitamin B3 and can be formed in the body as a derivative of niacin (the other form of vitamin B3, aka nicotinic acid). This water-soluble vitamin is also abundant in foods such as fish, yeast, meats, eggs, milk, green vegetables, beans and more. Additionally, it plays a critical role in the function and health of the cells in our bodies. This amazing ingredient has shown promise when considering a multitude of skin disorders and conditions such as (but not limited to), acne, eczema, hyperpigmentation, skin irritation, and, of course, those fine lines and wrinkles.
Speaking of fine lines and wrinkles, niacinamide is somewhat limited in terms of research, however, the results of several studies are extremely promising, therefore, I have decided to include this as an ingredient to consider until the science says otherwise.
In a double blind study involving females (average age of 50) showing signs of aging in the form of fine lines and wrinkles, researchers applied a 5% topical solution of niacinamide to half of their faces, but not the other, twice daily, for 12 weeks [9]. Using facial imaging and other forms of observations, results were obtained at 4 week intervals [9]. The results showed significant reduction of wrinkles, improvement in hyperpigmented spots, redness and skin sallowness (yellowing of the skin) on the treatment side of their faces, but not the other [9]. Additional findings showed that skin elasticity improved and participants generally tolerated the treatments well without irritation or any significant complications [9].
In another similar double blind study involving 30 healthy Japanese females, researchers also used a split face approach to observe changes in fine lines and wrinkles in the eye areas over time [10]. Each participant applied a 4% solution of niacinamide on one side of their face and applied a control cosmetic (not containing niacinamide) on the other side for 8 weeks [10]. Researchers recorded results using doctors' observations and photographs based on guidelines set forth by the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association and also by determining the difference between skin roughness using skin replica [10]. The results showed a staggering improvement in 64% of the subjects when compared to the control solution applied to the other side of their faces [10]. Wrinkle reduction was significantly reduced well below pre-application levels when niacinamide was used [10]. In addition, only one participant experienced noticeable irritation to this vitamin treatment, further indicating that it is well tolerated by most [10].
Niacinamide helps protect our skin as an occlusive through the formation of a protective barrier on our stratum corneum preventing transepidermal water loss. In addition, this awesome vitamin complex has been shown to inhibit photocarcinogenesis (in simplified terms, the creation of cancer cells via certain wavelengths of light, such as UV rays from the sun).
Additionally, and most importantly, its most powerful characteristic when combating fine lines and wrinkles seems to be related to its association with NAD(H) and NADP(H) that act as strong indirect co-antioxidants in these reduced forms, but, unfortunately these electron carriers naturally produced in our bodies decrease with age.
To understand what the above statements mean we first must discuss oxidized NAD+ (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide), which is a coenzyme (enzyme that binds to other enzymes to help with reactions). NAD+ is formed by its precursors niacin, niacinamide, nicotinamide riboside and others. In our bodies, NAD+ is responsible for two major functions: 1.) It assists in turning nutrients into energy within our mitochondria via Krebs cycle (aka citric acid cycle), which ultimately produces ATP (adenosine triphosphate) responsible for cellular energy, and 2.) It helps proteins regulate numerous cellular functions, including cellular repair.
What does this mean and how does it apply to fine lines and wrinkles?
Now that we know what NAD+ is, we need to know its relationship with niacinamide, NAD(H), NADP(H) and fine lines and wrinkles. As referenced above, niacinamide, along with other B vitamins, are used to make NAD+ during Krebs cycle. During this cycle NAD(H) is formed from NAD+ by the addition of a charged hydrogen atom (H+) plus two electrons, thus neutralizing, or stabilizing the molecule (NAD+ & H+ plus two electrons ultimately cancel the charge and render the molecule neutral). NAD can exist as both an oxidized form in NAD+ that can accept a hydrogen atom, or its reduced form NAD(H) which is able to reduce and donate a hydrogen (H+) atom and two electrons. As discussed before the reduced forms NAD(H) and NADP(H) are strong indirect co-antioxidants that assist in keeping our cells safe from oxidation of free radicals, which we know all too well are associated with cellular damage and wrinkles.
So where does NADP(H) and niacinamide stand in all of this?
To simply the process, NADP(H) is formed when the oxidized NADP+ (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate) accepts a hydrogen atom and two electrons to become the reduced form NADP(H). In its reduced form it is able to donate a hydrogen atom and respective electrons. These electrons in particular are able to "reduce" (or "donate" themselves to) a free radical, therefore stopping the oxidative process.
To simplify further, niacinamide makes NAD+, which in return makes reduced NAD(H) by gaining a hydrogen atom (H+) and associated electrons (2e-). In addition, niacinamide also assists in the formation of oxidized NADP+, which ultimately forms the reduced NADP(H) molecule via the same mechanism [adding/gaining a hydrogen atom (H+) and two electrons]. Both reduced forms of NAD(H) and NADP(H) are very powerful indirect co-antioxidants that help form direct antioxidants. Direct antioxidants stop oxidation from free radicals, which protects our fibroblast cells responsible for producing the macromolecules needed to keep our skin looking supple, elastic and new.
One of our top selling products is currently receiving rave reviews, and for good reason. Our product formula for Peptide Moisture Illuminator (absolutely loaded with vitamin C, Niacinamide, vitamin E, Peptides, and much, much more) is a product I can't stop talking about. My partner and I, plus other customers absolutely love the ingredient profile of this silky, hydrating and anti-aging crème. I can't say enough about it and I apologize for ranting and raving so much. This is definitely a staple in my collection and I, personally, along with my partner have witnessed significant results over the months. Leave all the biochemistry aside and let this product do all the complex hard work for you. I love it!
Vitamin C, aka ascorbic acid, is one of the most potent antioxidants used in skincare. It is known for its ability to promote collagen production and may help defend against UV damage from the sun. This powerful water-soluble ingredient has also been used to tackle hyperpigmentation, wounds, scars, and of course, fine lines and wrinkles. Vitamin C can be found in kakadu plums, cherries, guavas, kiwis, broccoli, papayas, camu camu, and, of course, citrus fruits to name a few. Vitamin C is abundant in many foods and this is a good thing.
This powerful antioxidant can be very efficacious in reducing the appearance of those fine lines and wrinkles and can work in multiple ways. So far, many of the ingredients we have covered primarily work against premature aging and photo-damaged skin via their free radical fighting properties. We know that antioxidants donate electrons to free radicals rendering them stable, resulting in repaired and healthy fibroblast cells responsible for new and supple looking skin. Vitamin C works through this same pathway, however, it has an additional trick up its sleeve. Due to its highly acidic nature this powerful ingredient "activates" our skin cells to heal themselves, thus, it promotes the production and synthesis of collagen (which, as we know is largely responsible for new and supple looking skin).
Additionally, some forms of this amazing ingredient may have occlusive properties that prevent transepidermal water loss, therefore, for most people, this proven nutrient should have a solid place reserved for it in any skincare routine. When considering it's ability to protect and promote collagen production (via its antioxidant and acidic properties), protect against UV damage (which also contributes to wrinkles), its ability to help keep the skin hydrated (depending on which derivative used), this awesome ingredient may serve as the coup de grace to those fine lines and wrinkles. Plus, it's safe for most people when used correctly. What more can we ask for?
A study involving 60 healthy female participants (of various ages) involved applying a vitamin C cream to their faces over the course of 60 days [11]. Researchers measured the effects on skin rejuvenation and collagen synthesis. Images were recorded and observed at 40 and 60 days post application to determine the anti-aging effects of this powerful nutrient [11]. The results of this study showed that vitamin C is extremely efficient in cellular rejuvenation and collagen synthesis [11]. In addition, these findings were equally observed in all age groups with almost no side effects [11].
When searching for a vitamin C product I recommend looking for ascorbic acid (aka L-ascorbic acid), which is generally the most potent and stable form used on human skin. This form of vitamin C is great at penetrating deep into the skin and does not need to be converted into true vitamin C before working its magic like other derivatives do.
Last, but not least, do you ever see vitamin C and vitamin E paired together in products? If you do that is because the two work synergistically together to pack a real wallop against free radicals responsible for fine lines and wrinkles. Remember α-Tocopherol (α-Toc) from our second article? Yep, vitamin C and α-Toc are great friends that definitely have you in their best interest. If you haven't read our second article on periorbital dark circles and eye bags, feel free to take a look and read about the relationship between these two vitamins.
Another effective form of vitamin C to look for is tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (oil-soluble derivative which is good for aging skin as well), however, I still prefer L-ascorbic acid for its potency, stability, purity and the fact that it is the most researched and widely used. There are other forms of this vitamin that work well such as Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbate, Calcium Ascorbate and Ascorbyl Palmitate to name a few. It really comes down to your skincare needs, budget, tolerability and preference, but pound-for-pound, L-ascorbic acid reigns supreme in my opinion.
A word of caution:
Several of our products are loaded with so many anti-aging ingredients including vitamin C, such as Citrus Fruit Revitalizing Mask (featuring vitamin C packed Camu-camu and vitamin E), Oligopeptide Restoring Eye Complex (featuring the world's most abundant source of vitamin C, Kakadu Plum), Peptide Moisture Illuminator (absolutely loaded with vitamin C, niacinamide, vitamin- E and much, much more), and finally Vita - C Antioxidant Moisturizer (featuring vitamin C and vitamin E plus more). These are all formulated with in-house botanical extractions and made with selectively picked ingredients by some of the leading cosmetic chemists in the industry. As I usually say, I will be biased, but my word is my word and I stand by it.
*As always we highly recommend speaking with your dermatologist before using vitamin C, or any product to determine safety. In addition, always follow the directions given by your doctor or on the instruction label. A general rule of thumb is to apply ingredients from thinnest consistency to thickest and make sure you use products that work well together. Skin sensitivity should also be taken into consideration as well when starting any new product
When considering the battle against fine line and wrinkles there are many options to choose from. As mentioned before some work better than others, some work great alone, some better in combination, and, some, unfortunately are just marketing gimmicks. When combating fine lines and wrinkles Phytoretinol (Bakuchiol), Retinol (Vitamin A), Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), and Vitamin C are all outstanding and proven ingredients for the vast majority of users to knock out those fine lines and wrinkles over time. Of course it is equally important to do your best to live a healthy lifestyle in terms of sleep, nutritional intake, stop smoking, limit constant facial expressions, and take every measure possible (in a safe way), to protect yourself from excessive sun and UV exposure (like wearing SPF).
At Picasso Skin we put every effort possible into making sure our clients receive the best quality products available that are tested, safe, effective and free of parabens, FD&C colors, hydroquinone, sodium lauryl sulfate, and animal-derived ingredients. In addition, we limit our use of fragrance to very small amounts in only a few of our products.
With the above mentioned statements, we believe our products stand out due to our selective sourcing of ingredients, the science behind the ingredients, our innovative formulas, real world experience and our partnership with our world class cosmetic chemists and manufacturer. The ingredients mentioned in this article are backed by science, have been used successfully by our clients and are considered safe by EWG.org and other reputable sites.
Last, but not least, I'd like to end this third article by saying an increasing number of people are opting for plant-derived ingredients over other potentially harmful options. Sometimes these harmful ingredients are underhandedly hidden away in proprietary blends and alternate names by companies who prioritize profit over people. These companies (not all of them) can be very clever and misleading using sneaky names like "natural" and other marketing strategies to fabricate a false sense of security in the consumer. Many of these "safe" and "natural" ingredients are known carcinogens, toxins and unethically sourced, but not labeled as such. While profiting is a great thing in any retail business, it should never be more important than the safety and health of the very people putting food on your table. Transparency is a must.
Until the fourth article in our series of seven, thank you for reading. Please feel free to comment below. We welcome all comments, suggestions, etc. Additionally, if you would like an article written on a particular topic, please feel free to contact us at info@picassoskin.com, or leave a comment below. Thanks again for taking the time out to read...hope you enjoyed...see you in two weeks :)
References:
Next article: Blackheads (type of acne)
Dark circles around eyes or eye bags (aka periorbital dark circles) are an increasingly common skin problem affecting young people, as well as the elderly. There are a multitude of reasons why people develop the appearance of darkened skin and/or bags, such as:
As we age, dark circles or eye bags may start to appear by virtue of thinning skin. This thinning is mostly attributable to the natural loss of collagen and fat as a function of compromised protein synthesis and cellular repair as we age (via telomere shortening). Eventually, subdermal tissue and periorbital veins (dark veins around the eyes) start to show through this thin barrier, creating the appearance of darker, sunken skin or bags around our eyes. However, there are many other reasons as listed above — and others not listed — that may contribute to this appearance.
Before discussing cosmetic treatments, it is important to address some of the things we can proactively do to help prevent this occurrence. One such factor contributing to dark circles in many people is sleep deprivation. Let’s find out why this is so important…
When we are sleep deprived our bodies are unable to repair tissue as blood circulation and protein synthesis become compromised (more on this later). If this is not enough to make you want to take that extra nap today, consider that sleep deprivation will also increase steroidal compounds that reduce proper blood flow to the eyes, resulting in deoxygenated blood, as most available blood will then be transported to muscles and other major organs instead. Sadly, this leaves our eye areas to fend for themselves. The ultimate result: dark circles and bags, or periorbital dark circles — with or without the use of skincare products.
Combine sleep deprivation with age related impaired protein synthesis and we have serious bags, problems, darkness, hallucinations, zebras fighting unicorns, and…just get some sleep, ok? 💤
Another simple action we can take before resorting to skincare products is to drink water. Like any other organ in our body staying hydrated is one of the most important things you can do for your health, including your eyes. If dehydrated, proper blood flow and skin hydration will be impaired causing those dark subdermal tissues and veins to show through. However, this appearance is usually temporary (we will discuss this in the next few articles in more detail).
Last, but not least, nutrition (eating foods rich in vitamins B12, C, E, K, iron if anemic, lycopene in tomatoes and anthocyanin in dark berries), limiting excessive sun exposure (to prevent excess melanin production), quitting smoking, and taking time to relax are sure fire ways we can improve not just those bags, but our overall general health, appearance, mood and safety. Now, for the good stuff…
How do we treat those Dark Circles and Eye Bags?
Dark Circles have a multitude of different solutions, but many people are beginning to opt for plant-derived products rather than other potentially harmful alternatives. Here are some of the best plant-based ingredients for Dark Circles and Eye Bags that we have selected and recommend:
Hyaluronic acid (HA), or hyaluronan, is produced naturally in our bodies as well as in plants. Contrary to popular belief HA is actually a hydrophilic polysaccharide (water loving sugar), or if you want to get technical, it is considered a non-sulfated glycosaminoglycan (GAG), a type of mucopolysaccharide.
Ok, whatever, tongue twisting organic chemistry aside, HA plays a vital role in retaining water and hydrating your skin (Fig. 1). It is great for use as a humectant, meaning it will retain/keep water within the skin as a means of hydration — like wetting a sponge (Fig. 1). This unique characteristic of HA plays an important role in keeping your skin looking full, smooth, vibrant and firm (Fig. 1). It also greatly helps with elasticity and significantly enhances your body’s ability to synthesize and use collagen. In other words, this is great for those periorbital dark circles and bags. Dark circles and bags? HA says, “Hi!” 👋
In addition, hyaluronic acid in our bodies has the unique ability to hold 1,000 times its weight in water due to hydrogen binding between its carboxyl and N-acetyl groups, making it a must have humectant [1]. But that’s not all, as one of its most impressive feats is that it also prevents this same water from escaping, due to the hydrophilic properties of these hydrogen bonds (remember that wet sponge?). This is just amazing stuff! This polysaccharide (type of sugar) can also be found in citrus fruits and root vegetables - like potatoes, onions, carrots, etc.
But, not so fast! Unfortunately, as we age, we sadly lose naturally occurring HA, collagen and elastin (Fig. 2). And to add further insult to injury, it only has a half-life of about 1-3 days, therefore time becomes our skin’s kryptonite. Because of this, HA needs to be supplemented regularly as the years pass by (daily use is ok). However, despite these minor shortcomings this does not mean we are completely Sugar Out of Luck.
Many foods — some just mentioned above — and various plant derived skincare products can be great sources to supplement adequate levels of hyaluronic acid with. And just because you are young and producing copious amounts of HA doesn’t mean you should neglect the start of a normal routine using this amazing product now. In fact, there is evidence to support those who start a skincare regimen in their teens and early 20’s may significantly slow the progression and appearance of aging as the years go by [2].
On a similar note, a study involving 33 women (average age = 45.2 years) who applied low molecular weight HA topically 2 times per day for eight consecutive weeks showed up to a 40% decrease in wrinkle depth and up to a 55% increase in firmness and elasticity compared to the placebo group showing this polysaccharide’s amazing ability to fight against the appearance of aging [3]. And yes, this is significant evidence that HA will combat those dark circles or eye bags. The science and data speak for themselves despite what other sites may claim.
At Picasso Skin we strictly adhere to science and real world experience to make informed decisions when recommending products. Until the scientific community overwhelmingly states otherwise, we will maintain our stance on the amazing benefits of HA.
Check out the study here:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3970829/
Who can/should and should not use hyaluronic acid?
How to use HA:
2. Shea Butter
Shea butter is derived from the seeds of the Vitellaria paradoxa tree found in West Africa and is found to have plant phenolic compounds (compounds that exhibit strong antioxidant properties). In addition — despite the fact that shea butter is derived from a nut — allergic reactions to this awesome seed oil extract are rare, making it very safe for just about everyone and all skin types.
Shea butter is an all-natural, do-it-all product due to its content of hydrating palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic and arachidic fatty acids; antioxidant vitamins A, E and F; nourishing triglycerides, anti-inflammatory cetyl esters, and collagen protecting triterpenes which originate from squalene (also found in shea butter). This incredible seed extract may also harbor antibacterial properties as well as help boost collagen production. In addition, it is also known to prevent the breakdown of collagen already present in our skin due to its high vitamin A (in the form of carotenoids) and triterpene content.
Speaking of vitamin A (found in shea butter and other plants)…
Plant based Vitamin A — a provitamin A carotenoid — is known to play a role in strengthening and stimulating the cells of the dermis layer of our skin via β-carotene (found in shea butter). β-carotene is one of 3 forms of carotenoids called provitamin A carotenoids that can be converted by the body to retinol (true vitamin A). All types of carotenoids are part of a family of chemicals called phytonutrients. In total, there are more than 600 identified types of carotenoids [4].
In humans, carotenoids play a role in our antioxidant defense system. Being a provitamin A carotenoid, β-carotene may also be considered an antioxidant; and a very powerful one at that. When applied to human skin, β-carotene acts synergistically with other naturally occurring antioxidants to form a strong response against many harmful free radicals. It simply inhibits the oxidation of molecules from free radicals by donating electrons, thus rendering them harmless and stable. In addition, this carotenoid may even reduce the risk of cancer [4].
One of β-carotene’s unique features is that it is also a precursor to vitamin A (retinol) and can be converted to this particular retinoid depending on our body’s needs. α-Carotene and β-cryptoxanthin are the other two forms of provitamin A carotenoids that can be converted to vitamin A (retinol) as well. Once converted, this retinoid (retinol) is able to deeply penetrate into the dermis (middle layer) portion of our skin [4]. While present in this layer, it begins to neutralize free radicals actively damaging our cells — including those fibroblast cells. Once repaired and functioning again, our fibroblast cells boost up production of fibrous collagen proteins, “stretchy” elastin proteins and glycosaminoglycans (such as hyaluronic acid), thus paving the way to a younger, fuller, and more vibrant looking appearance.
Considering the benefits described above and the fact that shea butter itself is a humectant, occlusive and emollient all in one, our skin should look as good and supple as new with tens of thousands of new cells proliferating each day. This is great news for those eyes!
Most often this nutrient rich wonder ingredient is used as an emollient, meaning it protects, softens, and soothes our skin in a similar way that natural sebum does. However, as mentioned above, shea butter is also very diverse in that it has humectant and occlusive properties as well. Being a humectant means it retains moisture, whereas being an occlusive means it will trap this same moisture within the skin via a hydrophobic (water repelling) protective barrier, thus preventing Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL). TEWL is the loss of water through various factors within the body and its interaction with the outside environment.
With so many amazing benefits of shea butter — and so many we haven’t discussed in detail — such as its healing properties, UV protection (via carotenoids) and more, it is easy to see why this plant-derived ingredient ranks high on our list of products to use for those dark circles, bags and more.
It is important to note however, and out of an abundance of caution, a few contraindications and/or risks (may) exist with shea butter (probably not though):
Shea butter is great for (but not limited to):
How to use Shea Butter:
Do you wish those periorbital dark circles and bags would just go away? Just shea it and your wish will come true. Sorry, couldn’t resist…
Anyway...
3. Argania Spinosa (Argan) kernel oil
Argania Spinosa (Argan) kernel oil is extracted from the kernel seeds of the Argania spinosa plant, native to Morocco in the semidesert Sous valley in the southwest part of the North African nation. It is also found in the region of Tindouf in southwestern Algeria, a nation also in Northern Africa. This unique plant and its nutrient rich seeds harbor many beneficial skin secrets and specialties that make it a must-have staple in your skincare regimen.
Argan is absolutely loaded with α-Tocopherols (vitamin E), Polyphenols (Ferulic acid), Triterpene (antioxidant), other antioxidants, fatty acids such as linoleic, oleic and palmitic acid; phytosterols and squalene. This power packed kernel oil also carries anti-aging and moisturizing benefits as well. It is easy to see why this plant-derived ingredient is not only great for dark circles, but for general skin health and appearance, as evidenced by its impressive ingredient profile we will discuss below:
α-Tocopherol (α-Toc) is one of 8 derivative forms of vitamin E and the most abundant form in human skin [5]. Vitamin E, which is synthesized and derived from plants, is often described as an “antioxidant superhero” on its own. This vitamin is arguably one of the most powerful antioxidants known to humans (Fig. 3 below, shows how antioxidants work).
Based on multiple studies, α-Toc may have the ability to significantly protect against UV-induced free radical damage as well as damage caused by pollution to our amazing, yet sometimes vulnerable skin. This powerful vitamin is also considered an excellent moisturizer and exhibits a significant anti-inflammatory response when topically applied to damaged skin.
The benefits of this form of vitamin E are quite extensive, as evidenced by multiple studies. One study, involving 98 patients prone to acne vulgaris, showed a significant reduction in the formation of comedones when α-tocopherol was combined with vitamin C [5]. In a separate report from the Indian Dermatology Online Journal, dark circles were moderately reduced when applying a topical gel containing 2% phytonadione, 0.1% retinol, 0.1% vitamin C and 0.1% vitamin E [5].
Due to α-tocopherol’s hydrophilic properties, it can be used as both a humectant and an emollient by drawing moisture into the skin and sealing it there creating a soft, full, smooth, and hydrated look and feel. In addition, with its many antioxidant properties, this vitamin has the ability to protect fibroblast cells in the skin which are largely responsible for synthesizing elastin and structural collagen. Therefore, it plays a major role in maintaining structure and skin elasticity.
Vitamin E (α-Toc) also has major implications on anti-aging, wrinkle reduction and filling in thinning skin as a result of its many benefits and synergistic properties as described above. Couple this with triterpene (also found in Argan oil) and its associated compounds known to deactivate collagen fiber destruction and there seem to be endless synergistic benefits taking place in one product. Thus, we see why this plant and seed has rightfully earned its name, “Liquid Gold of Morocco.”
Argania spinosa kernel oil truly possesses a stellar combination of ingredients, whether working synergistically or solo. One must consider using this plant-derived “cosmetic wonder” as a part of their anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, collagen boosting, elasticity improving, hydrating, antioxidant, anti-bacterial, UV protecting, anti-inflammatory, anti-acne, moisturizer (using both emollient and humectant properties) plus dark eye and bag repair product package all in one.
Did someone say dark circles or eye bags? What are we discussing again? Supple skin? Where are we?
Ok, as good as it sounds, there’s more, much more to Argan oil…
Polyphenols are naturally plant derived. They can be found in food sources such as fruits, vegetables, berries, plums, apples, beans, nuts, dark chocolate, and the list goes on and on and of course, Argan oil. Polyphenols are considered antioxidants that exhibit special and unique characteristics as we’ll soon find out (fig. 3 below, how antioxidants work).
This brings us to a particular and very cool polyphenol friend of ours called Ferulic Acid (FER). Ferulic acid (a polyphenol antioxidant) is unique in the way that it acts with other antioxidants when used in skincare. Like some kind of natural miracle, we have another amazing ingredient that actually works synergistically in our favor. This crazy antioxidant has no fear of free radicals or obstacles that stand in its way because it simply has too many friends with electrons to spare.
What does this mean? Well, when in the presence of harmful/damaging free radicals, our old friend FER over there simply gives his or her antioxidant friends a pep talk, gets them rallied up and they work side by side in tandem to donate extra electrons to easily convert those unwanted, pesky free radicals into harmless stable substances (see fig. 3, image to the left). Next, the former radicals finally leave our cells alone and allow us to age properly.
Some of FER’s antioxidant friends are vitamins A, C, and E (remember α-tocopherol? The vitamin E we just discussed above?). Yeah, ferulic acid is friends with this vitamin too, good friends actually.
Ferulic acid also has very good anti-aging properties on its own, but in all honesty, we still may owe most of our gratitude to α-tocopherol, who we just learned above is one of the most powerful antioxidants known. That’s not to say ferulic acid isn’t an awesome ally to have, because it certainly is, and for many reasons.
Let's explain why…
One reason we want this polyphenol antioxidant on our side is because it simply works well with the other antioxidants we previously discussed. It is excellent at working in tandem with them and simply magnifies their efficacy as a unit (you know, strength in numbers?). These antioxidants, when working together — especially with vitamin A — travel deep into the dermis, like armed, tactical troops ready to methodically and systematically stop and even help reverse the oxidative damage done to our cells via those free radical enemies. As a result, our fibroblast cells are better protected and able to resume normal operations. As we recall, healthy fibroblast cells synthesize collagen and the extracellular matrix which includes elastin. Add some hyaluronic acid into the mix, and, well..
Enough said!
“What does this mean? Well, when in the presence of harmful/damaging free radicals, our old friend FER over there simply gives his or her antioxidant friends a pep talk, gets them rallied up and they work side by side in tandem to donate extra electrons to easily convert those unwanted, pesky free radicals into harmless stable substances. Next, the former radicals finally leave our cells alone and allow us to age properly.”
As mentioned before, the wonders of Argania Spinosa (Argan) kernel oil are far from over in this section. If you ever wanted a gift that keeps on giving, Argan oil may be it. It is loaded with goodies! Aside from all the wonders we have already discussed, this plant also harbors phytosteroids in the form of phytosterol, which is somewhat analogous to cholesterol in its composition [6]. You might ask: “cholesterol?!” However, there is no need to panic. Well, unless you plan on eating your skincare products that is. Even so, ingesting plant based phytosterols could actually be heart healthy. But, please don’t get any ideas because there are many other “nasties” in your products that may not be so beneficial to your health and survival. Staying alive and staying healthy is a good thing and should be our goal.
Hungry yet? Try eating broccoli, red onions, carrots, corn, nuts, seeds, and many other plant-based whole foods instead, as they contain copious amounts of these heart healthy compounds and are great for your skin and those baggy eyes.
Phytosterols, as mentioned above, are plant-derived compounds that occur naturally as free alcohols and fatty acid esters. They closely resemble the structure of cholesterol, as both have C-5 double bonds and a 3 β-hydroxyl group in their chemical structure but differ only in their carbon (C) side chains at the C-24 position [6]. In addition, depending on the specific phytosterol, it may or may not include a double covalent bond. A covalent bond is simply a bond that involves the sharing of paired electrons between different atoms.
These amazing compounds are known to block LDL (low density lipoprotein) absorption within the digestive tract. As a result, this LDL, or “bad” cholesterol (some studies suggest LDL may not be so bad) is out competed and blocked, therefore, based on studies, it may have the potential to significantly reduce blood cholesterol levels by as much as 10% [7].
Aside from ingesting our skincare products (once again, DO NOT do that) and blocking cholesterol, phytosterols also appear to be very good at inhibiting the reduction of collagen synthesis in our fibroblast cells (due to collagenase) post UV exposure, indicating its use in anti-aging products and UV protection (Fig. 4) [7]. According to research this seems to be quite a jim-dandy ingredient when fighting those periorbital dark circles and bags!
Not only does this amazing compound help block the effects of collagenase on collagen, but it may also aid in the stimulation of collagen production post sun exposure as well (Fig. 4) [8]. There is also significant evidence that, in addition to collagen production, phytosterols may aid in the synthesis of hyaluronic acid in fibroblast skin cells. As we recall, hyaluronic acid acts as a humectant and can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water. For those of us battling dark circles and bags, this should open up and brighten our eyes with excitement.
Lastly, as discussed above, the use of phytosterols applied topically to the skin can mimic the protective benefits of cholesterol’s role within this magnificent organ of ours. However, if we were to topically apply cholesterol, and it were absorbed through the stratum corneum (Remember? The thin outer protective layer of the epidermis - or skin - consisting mostly of cells containing keratin and lipids?), we would likely encounter irritation, inflammation and, you guessed it, acne. That certainly doesn’t bode well for our skincare goals.
So, how can we reap the same benefits as natural cholesterol from within our bodies without the negative side effects? Well, meet our new family friends the Phytosterols that we’ve just heard so much about. They are excellent at mimicking the benefits of cholesterol’s role in skin health, but come without the irritation and other associated side effects.
Phytosterols, like all the constituents in argan oil, have an abundance of benefits including anti-inflammatory properties, anti-aging effects, improved elasticity, skin hydration and help create smooth vibrant skin to name a few. And best of all, this plant-derived ingredient has been proven safe for use through many studies and is rated so as per the EWG website. This makes its use safe and worthwhile.
The days of toxic and animal sourced ingredients are gone, stop Argan ‘bout it.
Sorry...
“Couple that with triterpene (also found in Argan oil) and its associated compounds known to deactivate collagen fiber destruction and there seem to be endless synergistic benefits taking place in one product. Thus, we see why this plant and seed has rightfully earned its name, “Liquid Gold of Morocco.””
Squalene - not squalane - is a naturally produced oil constituent of sebum produced along with triglycerides and wax esters by our sebaceous oil glands in the skin. Sadly, it used to be taken from sharks, but thanks to the emergence and advances in plant-based science, we can finally leave our friends of the sea alone and free to roam.
Squalene is also considered a triterpene, which as we previously discussed, is known for protecting collagen degradation. Natural squalene by itself is lipid based and is great at hydration, but unfortunately, production “slows significantly after the age of 30,” as explained by Samantha Fisher, a board-certified dermatologist, in an interview on allure.com.
Squalane (SQ) on the other hand (ending with an “ane”), is the hydrogenated, more shelf-stable derivative of squalene. And, because we are discussing plant-derived ingredients, and we at Picasso Skin Do Not test on animals; and most importantly, we love sharks, we will be sticking strictly to the topics of plant-derived squalene (constituent of sebum) and its hydrogenated derivative squalane.
Confusing?
Well, we’ll sort it out…
It is somewhat comforting to know that, at least in the USA, squalane is now almost exclusively derived from plant sourced squalene for ethical reasons (and we are happy about that). One little letter makes all the difference, so be inquisitive and look out for that when searching for these plant-based ingredients.
When using squalene or squalane, make sure you know their sources and never use them if animal products are suspected ingredients. Look for products containing the phrases like “bio-based,” “plant-based,” “plant-derived,” and so on. Look for plant name ingredients and origins. However, be careful with terms like "natural" and "organic" because definitions of what is natural and organic can have multiple meanings. I mean, what is natural? Is it plant-derived? Sure. But, is shark liver oil not natural as well? It is. Marketing is tricky.
Anyway, squalene is an amazing, but unstable moisturizer that can also be extracted from olives, wheat, germ oil and rice bran. It is also a constituent of unsaponifiable vegetable oils (cannot be converted to soap), such as olive oils (mentioned above) and amaranth oil [9].
Squalene and its more stable derivative squalane are considered occlusive emollients (previously discussed), meaning they absorb and lock in moisture via a hydrophilic barrier, thus preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). In addition, each ingredient is very similar to the other in terms of chemical composition and function. They both do a wonderful job at preventing fine lines and wrinkles and can be used for spot treatment of dry areas on the skin [10]. However, once squalene (with an ene) is exposed to air, it oxygenates rather quickly, going rancid and becoming somewhat useless. In addition, squalene should not be used for people under the age of 20 due to high levels already present in their bodies during these years.
"Natural squalene by itself is lipid based and is great at hydration, but unfortunately, production “slows significantly after the age of 30" – Samantha Fisher, MD
Another thing to consider is that squalene is a poly-unsaturated hydrocarbon (type of lipid) and as a result may become comedogenic for some skin types. However, once hydrogenated into squalane it becomes saturated, stable and non-comedogenic. Plant-derived squalane is also very efficacious when treating acne, but seems to have only very slight antioxidant properties compared to squalene [11]. Both have their advantages and disadvantages. Both squalane and squalene are unique in that they are very good at mimicking your skin’s natural oils.
Squalene has also been used safely in an adjuvant (substance that enhances immune response to antigens) which was successfully added to a flu vaccine [12]. Both squalene and squalane have ant-inflammatory properties as well [13]. Squalane has even shown the ability to be a better hydrator than hyaluronic acid!
Other uses of these fine oils include, but are not limited to, the treatment of skin disorders like seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, and atopic dermatitis as noted in studies involving squalene [9]. These plant-based warriors may also protect against UV damage and help regenerate skin cells, making them viable options to try. Due to the poor shelf life of squalene in cosmetics, and its potential to be comedogenic in some people, it is rarely — if ever — included in skincare products before undergoing hydrogenation.
Considering plant-derived squalene and its hydrogenated derivative squalane’s use in products related to skin hydration, anti-aging, anti-inflammation, skin barrier protection, fine lines, wrinkles and more, one must consider these options when choosing ingredients used to combat those periorbital dark circles and bags.
And let’s not forget that regular use of these oils have shown the ability to boost collagen production as well. Both squalene and squalane are safe for most people and can be used on all skin types, but squalane may be additionally beneficial for those with acne and oily skin, as it is non-comedogenic. What more can we say? Is this not enough? Are we not entertained?
Which do you prefer?
Our pick: Hands down plant-derived squalane for its stability, non-comedogenic and anti-acne properties, but both have their advantages though.
Who can use Squalane?
Who can use Squalene (if found alone or within a skincare product at all)?
How to use Squalane:
So, as we can see, the Argania Spinosia plant is loaded with treats! That's why many of our products contain extracts from this amazing friend of ours.
Other ingredients to strongly consider for those periorbital dark circles and eye bags are peptides, vitamin C (ascorbic acid), niacinamide, retinol, and many more. We will go over these in much more detail in the next few articles, so stay tuned.
Periorbital dark circles? Bags? This is not an exhaustive list, but based on the ingredients we selected for this article, we now have a repertoire of options on hand to consider this case closed.
It is easy to see how periorbital dark circles and eye bags can form. There are a multitude of factors regarding their presence and formation — many of which we haven't discussed (yet). The good news is that in most cases there are steps we can take to manage — and sometimes reverse — their severity and/or appearance.
We have learned of only a few ingredients in Hyaluronic Acid, Shea Butter and Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil, however, there are many more alternatives that may be used and we will discuss these in future articles. I am a middle-aged, single father like many people out there and I am certainly not exempt from the stressors of life. I too succumb to the many skin problems we have discussed and will continue to discuss, including periorbital dark circles and eye bags.
Two of my favorite Picasso Skin products for this condition are Hyaluronic Eye Remedy and our Oligopeptide Restoring Eye Complex. Both products are loaded with the ingredients we have just learned about and I can tell you first hand that they work wonders for my periorbital appearance. I know, as always, I am going to be a bit partial, however, the truth is my reputation and place within this industry will be destroyed (before I even start) if I am not honest. I am proud to say that these products are life savers for me. I would also like to suggest our Peptide Eye Corrector which we believe will certainly bring a smile to your face when combating those dark circles and eye bags. This is a product that we will discuss in future articles, but I wanted to introduce it to you now because I simply can't wait and can't help myself. It is fast acting and can dramatically improve those dark circles, sooo...you'll just have to wait for a few more articles...sorry.
Lastly, I think it's important to note that appearance alone, whether it is wrinkles, dark circles, acne, etc., are superficial. You are beautiful the way you are, with or without these so called "conditions." I am not a doctor, dermatologist, etc., but just someone with with a background in biological research and a passion for skincare and I think it's important for everyone (including myself) to feel comfortable with who we are, change only what we want to change and/or change for our health, happiness and well being only. My opinion is that if you have periorbital dark circles and or eye bags as a result of an underlying health problem, such as lack of sleep, then it is time to visit your doctor; not for your skin appearance, but for your overall health. I cannot give medical advice, but my honest opinion is that changing your appearance should only be done for your health and your happiness, not because the industry, media, etc., places unnecessary pressure to look a certain way.
While we are here for your skincare needs, you must always know you look great the way you are!
So that ends our second article...hope you have enjoyed! Please feel free to comment below.
Next article: Fine Lines and Wrinkles.
[1] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2778417/
[3] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3970829/
[4] https://philmaffetone.com/vitamin-a-and-the-beta-carotene-myth/
[5] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4976416/#sec1-2title
[7] https://www.verywellhealth.com/which-foods-contain-the-highest-amount-of-phytosterols-697742
[8] https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18528670/
[9] https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23449131
[10] https://www.byrdie.com/best-products-squalane-squalene-difference-dry-skin-4799792
[11] https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23449131
[12] https://www.who.int/vaccine_safety/comittee/topics/adjuvants/squalene/questions_and_answers/en/
[13] https://www.healthline.com/health/squalane#_noHeaderPrefixedContent
15 minute read
]]>And, if that hasn’t piqued your interest, consider that your skin is also the body’s largest external organ making up the majority of its integumentary system (organ system that includes skin, hair, nails, and glands). In fact, it even protects your internal organs and bones from damage in addition to keeping you safe from getting sick. 🤮
Last, but very far from least, this amazing organ photolyzes Vitamin D3 in the epidermis (outer layer of skin) when exposed to sunlight, or ultraviolet radiation. This is quite astonishing considering estimates show up to 42% of Americans are deficient in these fat-soluble secosteroid compounds [1]. Without going into too much detail, let us just say vitamin D3 plays an important role in the absorption of calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphate, and zinc. Let’s just take a moment to thank this awe inspiring and amazing organ for all its wonders. Thank you, friend! Thank you!
So, why do so many of us forget about the health of our skin? Why do we sometimes slight this amazing companion? Is it because it always demands our attention? Is it really THAT clingy (pun intended)? Either way, ignoring our skin’s needs may beget problems over time (some severe and some minor). For the purpose of this article we’ll cover some of the less severe, more common skin disorders. We’ll learn how to treat them using plant derived ingredients that actually work. Ready to begin? Here is a list of some of the most common problems we will learn to address in our series of seven articles:
These are among the most common skin problems that are often treated with conventional harsh chemicals and/or other harmful methods. Sometimes traditional skincare modi operandi do more harm than good, which is why more and more people are opting for plant-derived solutions to their dermatological needs.
Let us now find out how we can tackle the 7 most common skin problems listed above with plant-based ingredients, backed by science, that actually work. Let’s distance ourselves from those other “friends”…err, toxic relationships.
We will begin with Acne in our first of 7 articles.
Ready?
Set?....
Onward we go...
Common acne (found mostly in teenagers and young adults) is medically termed acne vulgaris (vulgaris, meaning “common”). It is a skin condition characterized by the formation of comedones (e.g., pimples, whiteheads, blackheads, etc.), papules, pustules, nodules, and cysts due to obstructions and inflammation within our pilosebaceous units (hair follicles and their associated sebaceous glands). This condition usually appears on the face, forehead, upper back, chest, and shoulders. There are 4 major factors that contribute to these pestiferous, obstreperous little follicular pests listed below:
According to the American Academy of Dermatology, acne is the most common skin disorder in the United States, affecting over 50 million Americans each year [2].
In teenagers, acne is often caused by excess production of sebum (oil) in the sebaceous glands located near the hair follicles as a consequence of elevated androgen levels. However, in older age (especially in women), it is mostly attributable to other hormonal fluctuations and yes, even some skincare products (well, kind of…I’ll explain in a later article).
To simplify things, acne is formed because of blocked pores. This is due to increased division and accumulation of skin cells, oil, bacteria, and inflammation within our hair follicles. Due to heightened oil production, these dead skin cells (which normally shed) adhere to each other and end up clogging the pore of the follicle.
Lastly, you may be surprised, but poor skincare is not a prerequisite to acne formation; however, acne formation may require proper skincare. Ok, ok, enough of the P’s, C’s, bumps, how’s, what’s, where’s and when’s of acne. Let’s just get straight to the point…
Since there is accumulation of dead skin cells, oil and bacteria in acne, we will recommend two exfoliating agents plus a non-comedogenic anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial oil to remove or absorb bacteria infested buildup and debris from your skin. Some of these ingredients can be found in cleansers, toners, masks, creams, etc., so depending on your skin care routine you may want to incorporate the following: Alpha Hydroxy Acids, Fruit Enzymes and Tea Tree Oil. Whatever products you choose, it is important to select those suitable for your skin type (e.g., oily, dry, combination, all, etc.) and that work well together. Without further ado let’s jump right in...
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA’s) are a group of chemical exfoliating agents present naturally in plant sugars such as Papaya, Pineapple, Lemon, Tomato, Sugarcane, etc. These acids “unglue,” or dissolve the “gel-like” substance which holds our keratinocytes (skin cells) together, therefore helping to loosen and unclog those pores.
One of the most frequently used AHA’s is the water-soluble Glycolic Acid (most often derived from sugarcane), and for good reason. Glycolic acid gently breaks the lipid bonds on the outer most layer of the epidermis called the stratum corneum (layer of protective cells containing keratin and lipids), thereby removing and or freeing up many dead cells responsible for clogging your pores. This exfoliating action will promote new cell turnover, or proliferation; as a result, a new layer of skin will emerge, yielding fewer and less severe breakouts.
If you must use glycolic acid everyday you should start with a product that contains no more than 1%-2% of this AHA. Also, before starting any treatment it is recommended that you speak with a dermatologist first, as some people may not tolerate glycolic acid and other products well. In addition, always make sure you use AHA’s with compatible products and sunscreen for best results and safety (very important). This may be a product best used at night.
The benefits of this AHA do not stop here, however. Glycolic acid also has potent anti-bacterial and antioxidant properties in addition to creating a protective barrier (via proliferation of dense and healthy new cells) that help retain natural levels of moisture in your beautiful skin. If that’s not enough to give this fruit acid a try, it has also been shown in research to penetrate deep into your dermis (due to its small size) to help boost collagen production via fibroblast stimulation.
For most people AHA’s are an excellent and safe option for many reasons, including acne reduction, but as mentioned before, consult with your dermatologist before use to rule out any contraindications or possible side effects. And please, please, please follow the directions carefully when using this or any other skincare product for that matter. With that said, reactions are rare and when used correctly glycolic acid is extremely safe and effective.
A few other naturally sourced AHA friends to consider are Lactic, Tartaric, Citric, Malic, and Gluconic Acids to name a few. We will discuss these in future articles along with BHA’s (mainly Salicylic acid), which are also great for acne and other skin disorders.
For safety and/or efficacy do not mix unless directed by a dermatologist:
How to use AHA’s:
Fruit Enzymes — or proteolytic enzymes — such as Bromelain (found in pineapple) and Papain (found in Papaya) are part of a group of enzymes called proteases, which hydrolyze peptide bonds of proteins (breakdown of bonds via proteolytic degradation). When applied to acne these fruit enzymes help exfoliate by facilitating the break down of keratin protein from dead epithelial skin cells, thus unclogging our pores resulting in the proliferation of new and supple looking skin.
What does this mean? Well, first we need to understand what an enzyme is and what it does. Enzymes are proteins (protein catalysts) that help facilitate a reaction when combined with a substrate (the molecule in which an enzyme acts upon) without becoming a part of the reaction itself. In other words, enzymes precipitate, or speed up the formation of a product when combined with a substrate without being used up or destroyed in the process. They are often used to reduce the amount of energy required to produce an outcome, or yield a by product. Scared? Confused? Hold on…
Enzymes used in skincare are gentle and have two main functions: 1. exfoliation and 2. anti-inflammation and they are here to help you — it’s as simple as that. The outer layer of your skin is made up of a mix of living and dead cells that contain keratin protein (remember keratinocytes?). These fruit enzymes are hungry little protein critters, and they love to breakdown keratin (the substrate) into smaller, easily removed, amino acid chains. In addition, they inhibit oxidation by free radicals and other pollutants responsible for inflammation and various skin conditions. The result is a smoother, newer, and suppler appearance.
Fruit enzymes used in skincare are generally very safe, so take a moment to breathe, relax and enjoy them while they work their magic, but remember to store them as suggested on the packaging. Enzymes in general are easily denatured by factors such as heat and pH. Like anything else, use precautions.
“Enzymes used in skincare are gentle and have two main functions: 1. exfoliation and 2. anti-inflammation and they are here to help you — it’s as simple as that.”
Tea Tree oil is another wonder substance in that it exhibits anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties which inhibit and kill acne causing bacteria. This non-comedogenic (will not clog pores) oil is derived from the Melaleuca alternifolia plant native to Australia and has been successfully used in traditional medicines for centuries by Aboriginal peoples.
Hiding in tea tree plant extract is a compound called Terpinen-4-ol which exhibits considerable anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory characteristics. This compound exhibits broad spectrum anti-biotic properties, meaning it will inhibit and kill a wide range of bacteria. In addition, it is also helpful against viral replication and has anti-fungal properties as well. Tea tree oil has also been successfully used to heal wounds and can be used along with many other acne fighting ingredients.
For best results, use twice a day for 12 weeks. This oil is most often found in cleansers, toners, moisturizers and by itself for spot treatments (with a carrier oil). It is also sometimes included in body washes and shampoos. For most people this is a very safe ingredient, however, a small number of users may experience allergic reactions, so it is best to consult with your dermatologist before use. Otherwise, serve those pesky acne vulgaris visitors a cold cup of Tea Tree Oil.
A word of caution:
Skin problems are a headache for many people around the world. They affect people from all spectra such as men and women, young and old, and rich and poor. The most common skin disorder in the United States, as stated before, is acne, affecting 50 million Americans each year.
While there are many options available for acne, ingredients such as Bromelain, Papain (and other fruit enzymes), alpha hydroxy acids (such as glycolic acid), and tea tree oil are all great choices worth considering. They are very safe when used correctly and have helped many tackle common acne. The science, data and real life results speak for themselves.
Picasso Skin products such as Papaya and Pineapple Enzyme Infusion Exfoliant (fruit enzymes), Pumpkin Pineapple Enhancing Peel (AHA's and fruit enzymes) and Kojic Tone Illuminator (AHA's and tea tree oil) are loaded with so many amazing ingredients including the three discussed in this article. We take pride in our use and preference for plant-derived ingredients and the fact that our products are all paraben, FD&C colors, hydroquinone, sodium lauryl sulfate, and animal-derived free. Lastly, we use very little fragrance in only a few of our products. The vast majority of our products are fragrance free.
I can personally tell you, and truthfully state, that these are some of my favorite products of ours - or any other brand - that I've used. Yes, I know, I'm always going to be biased and partial, but I stand behind what I say. The purity of our selectively picked, in-house botanical extracts and ingredient profiles say it all in terms of safety, purity, freshness and efficacy.
Well, I hope you have enjoyed the first of our 7 articles. Feel free to comment below...looking forward to your feedback.
Next article topic: Periorbital dark circles and eye bags.
Sources:
1 https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6075634/
2 https://www.aad.org/media/stats-numbers
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